Pho – An epic of Hanoians

Long before anyone can remember, Pho appeared and became “a treat” that was common yet special to the people of Hanoi. It was common since this dish could be prepared easily with familiar and popular ingredients, but the specialty came from the signature Hanoi taste, “It wasn’t because only Hanoi had it, but because only in Hanoi that it was truly amazing” (Thach Lam).

In the memories of the Hanoian and the remaining records, Pho was already a familiar treat to all social classes and ages in the Capital city. Pho was sold in Hanoi on the wandering vendors in every street and corner, and that image had become intimate and accustomed to the mind of everyone; it’s so beloved that scholars and writers such as Thach Lam, Nguyen Tuan, Vu Bang… even brought Pho into their creation. It must be an absolute special thing reserved only to PHO

So why is it Pho but not Bun Cha (Grill Pork Noodles) the representative for this land of “a thousand years of civilization”? For sure Hanoi has dozens, even hundreds of fantastic dishes, but no such thing as splendid as Pho. Bun Cha with the grilled meatballs over flaming coals is definitely superb; Thanh Tri rolled cake (Banh Cuon) with its soft, thin and silky texture, combined with cinnamon pork sausage and ca cuong’s essence dipping sauce is also out of this world; but nothing can be compared to Pho. Pho can be considered the ultimate fusion of every delicacy in Vietnamese cuisine; from the bones, meats, spring onions, seasonings to the noodles made from rice, the signature of field rice civilization. Every component bonds together, thus creates “The most completing art masterpiece of Vietnamese cuisine”.

That anxiety can turn eating Pho into a “religious ritual” easily because, whenever coming back to Hanoi after a long trip of 2 or 3 days, those devotees of Pho must be at their “go-to” Pho place and devour right away.

Making Pho is no less than art

Hanoian themselves are proud of their delicate, chivalrous and for art’s sake qualities. Therefore, they have transferred all of that mentality into Pho. It can be assured that Pho is one of the few dishes requiring such elaboration and strictness in the process of preparing, making and dining.
	The recipe begins with making broth from cooking the cow’s marrowbones. The bones with precious marrow inside them is the excellent ingredients in making the broth. Beside marrowbones, some other parts such as ribs, spines and cow tails are a must. By only glimpsing at the broth, one can tell if that’s going to be a good bowl of Pho or not.
Beef, another component that’s no less important also requires careful preparation. The right beef must be boiled no matter what types: flanks, briskets or shanks

Pho and its variations  

After more than 100 years coming and turning into “a national dish” of Hanoi and Vietnam, Pho essentially has gone through many variations. Looking at the twists and turns of Pho, we can see the changes in this society. It’s a common rule and Pho itself could not be out of this influence.

	Chicken Pho was formed in the time of wars and chaos when beef was a luxury. People usually liken it to the femine beauty of the women rather than the strong sense beef Pho brings. Chicken Pho is perhaps, a symbol of “gender equality” in the cause of Pho-making in Vietnam. Beef Pho places are usually cooked or founded by males while chicken Pho stalls are mostly female “startups”.
Or like this recently popular Pho Xao (stir-fried Pho), a twist for diners who want to enjoy that crunchiness from the fried noodles with the rich-marinated beef that still maintain its signature taste
	The delicate rolled Pho, dipped in sweet-and-sour fish sauce certainly can make anyone away from home teary when recalling.

 

Vĩ thanh

Coming to Hanoi, you must have Pho and when away from Hanoi, Pho is also what people miss the most. Pho, is certainly a piece of a Hanoian soul. Pho, as beautiful as it is, is also common, not picky, not fussy. Pho bonds with everyone, just like this land that, for many generations, has welcomed and bid farewell to people from all over the place.

Pho doesn’t belong to the high-class nor the low-class, Pho belongs to its lovers. Those who embrace a wandering life away from Hanoi, what do you carry in your heart? An old street corner or the light smoke that brings the scent of Pho, so lightly yet hang on to you forever.

Source: Vietnam Plus

Link: http://special.vietnamplus.vn/phohanoi